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    Downhill longboarding

    Flex Options
    Custom Boards
    Misc: repairs, electric boards, etc.


    Q. Are some decks better for lighter-weight or heavier-weight riders?
    A. Yes. The stiffness of your board relative to your weight determines the correct flex properties. Check out the Quick Guide and Flex Graph to find the right board for your weight and riding style. You want a board that complements your weight in order to get the full use of the design. For Long Distance Pushing/Pumping, this means a dialed-in flex for the best flex-to-rebound ratio. For downhill, this means a board that isn't too heavy, but is strong enough to endure the forces of skating.

    Q. I don’t just do one kind of longboarding.  What board do you recommend for someone who likes to do it all?
    A. An all-around board is the best option, and we have a few boards that suit more than one discipline. The Shadow 37 and Ruse 39 are suited for commuting, and freeride to mild downhill. The Century 40 & Century 36 are built for pushing and pumping and make great commuting boards. The Spirit 30 is designed for slalom, downhill, and garage bombing.

    Q. Which boards are more purpose-built?
    A. The Pulse 40 is intended to be a distance pumper. The GT 40 is the solid-based pusher. The Vega 36 and Talon 37 are downhill topmount kings.

    Q. I’d like a board with a lot of response at lower speeds. What should I look for?
    A. The Century 40 and Pulse 40 are designed with pumping in mind and would be best for quick response and agile turning.

    Q. How hard and fast are the Ideal Weight ranges that you specify? I'm looking at a board in your one-of-a-kind section, but I'm just outside the weight range you say is ideal.
    A. The ideal weight ranges are developed out of our considerable experience with crafting custom boards for a wide range of riders, so they are quite accurate and you wouldn't want to stray way outside of them. However, pinpointing the ideal rider weight for a One-of-a-Kind board is not an exact science - it is our best recommendation for the optimal range. If you are a little heavier, but are looking for a flexy ride, it may still work for you. Conversely, if you're on the lighter side, the board will have less response, but that might be what you want.

    Q. I'm over 6' and 250 lbs. Are there any production boards that will work for me?
    A. We wouldn't recommend a production board, but we can custom build any of our decks to your specifications. For your size, you would definitely want double composites for adequate strength and stability.

    Q. I noticed that the Century 36 specs list the ideal rider weight as 130-170 lbs. I'm short and weigh about 115 lbs. Wondering if the Century 36 would be a good fit for me or if there's another board style I should be looking at? Any tips are appreciated.
    A. That board can work for you, but for your weight it would be considered a Flex 2.5 instead of a 2 (though it wouldn't be as stiff as a Flex 3 - Check out our Flex Graph to see the weight ranges that correspond to different flexes for each board). The Century 36 could be a great deck for you as you continue to progress in the sport. Though it might be a tiny bit less flexy for you, it's a lively board and everyone who has tried out the model is impressed with the responsive feel when pumping and pushing.

    Q. I'm looking for a pumping/carving board that can also be used for bowl skating.
    A. The board we currently make that is a pumping/carving board is the Ruse 39. An experienced skater could also use it for bowl skating, but it's really a little too long to be optimal for that.

    The Shadow 37 has a large kicktail which can be used in a skate park, and many skaters have used it for all types of skating. The board is more of an all-around board which can be used in a bowl.

    Q. I'm a beginning rider with an interest in pumping, but I also do some pushing because of the terrain I ride in. I've done some research and your boards are known to be great for pumping. I was trying to customize a board on your site but I'm not sure what might be best for me. Can you make some recommendations? 
    A. The Century is probably your best bet for the type of riding you are doing, as it's a hybrid push/pump design and suitable for all levels of riders: beginners to more advanced. If you are looking for an all-around pushing/pumping longboard, then a Century would be the way to go.

    Q. I know the Pulse is a great pumping board, but can it be used for pushing, too?
    A. We do know riders who do both pumping and pushing on the Pulse, but the purpose of the Pulse is primarily for pumping. It's a topmount board which uses its leverage to improve the pump, so it puts you further away from the ground for really comfortable pushing. If you do much pushing we recommend the Century, which is our hybrid push-pump board. Though riders can use topmount pumpers in areas which require pushing (really any board can be used for pushing), some boards make it easier to do both.



    Q. What are the differences between Flex 1, Flex 2, and Flex 3 in terms of which one is the stiffest out of the options?
    A. Flex 1 has the most give, and then each flex gets more stiff until you get to the Downhill Flex.

    Q. What flex do I choose for my weight?
    A. For production boards, there is a set flex for each board with a corresponding ideal weight range: pumping boards at a Flex 2, pushing boards at a Flex 3, and downhill boards at a Downhill Flex. Please take a look at the Flex Graph to see what flex you might prefer given your weight and riding style.

    For performance riding, most downhill riders will choose a Downhill Flex and most LDP riders will choose a Flex 2, which is what we typically recommend. Anything different would be your personal preference. Flex 1 is max flex, well-suited for lots of feel for carving, but would feel sloppy for pumping. Flex 3 is minimum flex, and is better for pushing and downhill where control is important. You can rest assured that if we see anything on your order that looks out of the ordinary, we'll contact you to make sure you get a board with the right specifications.

    Q. My weight falls on the border between two flex options, so I'm trying to decide which one to choose. For pumping and carving, what factors should I keep in mind?
    A. The rate of return or spring-back is quicker with the higher flex because it has less give than the lower flex. So for a quicker pumping response and tighter carving, the higher flex is your best bet. If you want a looser, flowing ride then the lower flex is what you're after. However, in the end, two side-by-side flex options are not significantly different. It's not like you are choosing between two extremes, it's more like just a step in one direction or the other.

    Q. What flex does the Production Century 40 have? Would it work for my weight at 120 lbs?
    A. The Production Century 40 is designed to be a flex 2 for riders weighing approximately 130-170. For your weight at 120, the Century would be a flex 2+, so it would still work for you depending on how flexy you want your board. The Century 36 may work better for you. We encourage you to check out the Flex Graph to see what flex works best given your weight and riding style.

    Q. I'm 145 lbs and I like a flexy board. Would the Pulse Flex 1 hold up for me?
    A. The Pulse 40 6-ply can be a good choice for you if you prefer slightly more flex to your ride. The 6-ply has a sheet of embedded fiberglass in it, so the durability of the construction won't be a problem, but it will be flexy for your weight. Take a look at our Flex Graph to see the rider weights that correspond to different flexes on our production boards. Even though you are slightly out of the suggested Flex 2 range, since you are looking for a softer board the 6-ply Pulse could still be a good choice for you.



    Q. If I order all the parts, will my board come assembled?
    A. Yes, if you order grip tape or other components, we automatically assemble the board - unless you've left special instructions asking us not to.

    Q. When choosing a wheel for my set-up, how does duro and size effect roll times between pushes, carving, energy transfer, etc?
    A. The size and durometer (hardness) of the wheels aid the specific purposes of skating (pushing, turning, speed, acceleration, grip). Larger wheels have the capability to achieve a higher top speed, while smaller wheels are more suited for quicker acceleration. Durometer can affect how well the wheels perform. Softer wheels (like an 80a) roll smoother on rough pavement and grip more. Harder wheels (like 83a) roll better on smooth pavement and maintain speed longer. You'll feel these differences more at extremes of riding - otherwise it doesn't make as much difference.

    These features transfer to different styles of riding in various ways:
    • Pushing - large hard wheels on smoother surfaces work better.
    • Carving - small soft wheels allow quicker turns and a smooth ride.
    • Pumping - smaller wheels allow better acceleration.
    • Freeride - soft small wheels allow more control when sliding.
    • Downhill - large soft wheels provide optimal speed with grip.

    Q. I am considering buying your Spirit Slalom deck. What would you suggest in terms of a set up with respect to hanger size? This set up is going to be used for pumping, cruising and some downhill. I've heard the width of your truck axle should closely match the width of your deck.
    A. For the Spirit 30 Slalom, we recommend hangers no larger than 140mm. The goal is to keep your wheels more under the board. Since distance from outside to outside of your wheels is determined by your trucks and your wheels, your wheel choice is an essential part of the overall decision. Bigger wheels deliver more traction, but wheels that stick out beyond the edge of the board have some disadvantages.

    Though there may be some mental advantage in feeling more confident about how wide your entire setup is, the more your wheels are inside the profile of your board, the less likely to accidentally step on them or kick them while you are pushing. If you avoid wheels that stick out, then you may having a tighter feel about where you can thread into. Since your feet are in direct contact with the board edges, you get more immediate neural inputs about where your board is. If your wheels stick out further, then you have to take a secondary mental step about how close you can get to a corner, or another rider's board. Your level of experience plays into what's recommended. 

    Q. What's recommended for an all out distance push set up?
    A. The GT 40 is our dominant pusher, mixed with a symmetrical truck setup and large wheels to keep the momentum high. Randal R3 180mm/50° trucks and Orangatang Kegels 80mm are what we suggest.

    Q. I would like your opinion on a new distance push-pump setup. I currently ride a pumper with Bennett/Tracker combo. I like powerful pumping at speed, pushing to build up momentum. Currently I have my rear truck quite stiff, de-wedged to nearly 0, and the front truck probably stiffer than most to maintain stability going down hills. It's a good setup but time to experiment with something new.
    I like the look of the Century 40 with the ability to lock your front foot into the drop (and it's a gorgeous board). I also notice that many distance skaters are riding G-Bomb brackets so La Maquina is a strong candidate. What do you recommend for maximum pumping power, speed, and distance comfort?
    A. If you are strictly doing pumping, we would recommend the Pulse, since it's purpose-built for pumping, though it can be used for some pushing if you don't mind that you're further from the ground. If you are looking for an all-around pushing/pumping board, then a Century would be the way to go. It's a great longboard because it can take you from beginning riding to more advanced. If you want to move up to a top-tier LDP board, then the Illuminati or La Maquina will suit you well. We recommend them mostly for LDP competitors.

    The Century 40 is probably your best choice, unless you are at the top end of skills. La Maquina + G-Bomb brackets is like the Formula 1 version of LDP. It's a good choice for people who travel to LDP events and are doing really serious training. All-wood/composite tends to be more comfortable than board/bracket combos, and better suited for the vast majority of riders. The step up to brackets is also a big cost step, since you pay for a board, trucks, and the brackets, but if you're ready to move up to the top level, then La Maquina and Illuminati are favorites among the LDP elite.

    Q. I'm looking to purchase a GT40 board for long distance pushing and wonder if you have any trucks or specific truck sizes to recommend? I'm looking for a relatively narrow setup and am thinking to go with the 85mm Seismic Speed Vents.
    A. Thanks for asking about a Subsonic GT 40. It a great choice for LDP. The GT 40 works with nearly all symmetrically set-up trucks, narrow and wide. We offer the Randal R3 180mm/50° trucks as the suggested setup on the GT 40. Since you are looking for a narrower setup, we recommend trucks that are between 140-160mm. This is what many LDP riders go for to make sure the wheels are under the board and not sticking out. The more the wheels stick out, the more likely you are to step on them when kicking, both on the plant (front truck) or the follow through (rear truck). For something narrower, you could upgrade to Don't Trip trucks. Best choice for the GT 40 would be an option offering stability, like the Euphoria, with a hanger width greater than 150mm. 

    Q. Do I need to add wedging to the Pulse in order to get it to pump? I realize that I might want to eventually try different wedging, but would it be relatively "pumpable" right out of the box?
    A. Our Pulse Complete is built in a way that can be pumped right out of the box. For pumping, you want the front truck to turn more than the back truck, and the Bennett-Vector front truck allows more turn and has a higher angle plate than the Tracker RT-S that we put on the back.

    Adding an angled riser to the rear to reduce the angle even more would make the pump better, so that's the easiest part to add to your setup to get better pumpability - as would new and better bushings. We suggest Riptide Bushings APS for nearly all pumping and pushing boards.

    Q. I love to carve and even do a limited amount of dancing. I don't push much because of foot pain, but I have a land paddle and enjoy using that. I am looking for a board to do almost entirely pumping and paddling. For the type of artistic or surf-like carving/pumping that I do, can you recommend the best set-up. It seems most of the forum posts ask about very long-distance pumping and pushing as opposed to a more intense, carving-like pumping that I prefer.
    A. From the details provided, here's a suggested set-up that is best suited for people getting into the pumping scene. If you are just starting out, you'll want to have a board and set up that is specifically designed for pumping, for an advantage in the pump. As long as the set-up as a whole is right, the Pulse 40 is a great board for pumping and land paddle. It's one of our best-selling boards for that reason and the board we'd recommend to you with this set-up:
    Front Trucks: Bennett Vector 6.0
    Rear Trucks: Tracker RTS 129
    Wheels: Orangatang 83a In Heat 75mm
    Bearings: Zealous 

    The Century, a hybrid push/pump board, could also be an option. The Century has a Wedge/Dewedge system built into the design. The heavily dropped platform allows for a much easier push than traditional Top-mount, making it easier on your body to push when necessary. The Century is the board we suggest when learning to pump and push.

    At this stage of the game, we would suggest waiting on a board using G-Bomb Brackets. They are great pieces of hardware, but they're a slippery slope for those wanting to learn to pump. The brackets are meant for riders who have a lot of experience with the field, to have the ability to adjust their setup quickly or who need extra weight reduction for the races they compete in. When learning, having fewer factors that change the way the board moves is better. As flashy as they are to look at, and fun to ride, they aren't a recommended item when you're starting out. And they add to the cost considerably, but this is a case where the "better" item does not help you learn quicker or perform better. For learning, a solid maple deck and a decent truck setup will be better in the long run, keeps the cost down, and take you a long way before you need the next setup. 

    Q. When customizing the Pulse 40 on your website, I'm still hesitating if I will buy the Bennett-Vector 5.0 or 6.0 for the front truck. Opinions are divergent on the internet in regards to the combination of sizes for front/back trucks. Some think both trucks hangers should be the same size back and front, others say it's better to have a wider truck in the front, and a little smaller in the back. A lot of people seem to like the Bennett-Vector 5.0 in the front, with a Tracker RT-S 129mm in the back. Many more seem to like the 6.0 in the front better. I'm thinking to buy a 6.0 for the front, and a Tracker RT-S 149 for the back.
    A. There is no rule in skateboarding that says you need a symmetrical setup, or even symmetrical width trucks. It's all how you want the board to perform. Overall, the width of trucks work best when matched with your style of pumping. If you tend toward smaller pumps, narrower trucks provide better grip and handling, while wider trucks are better suited for larger swinging pumps.

    The Pulse 40 is really a purpose-built board for pumping and is best with a directional set-up. Most pumpers run a narrow rear truck, and whichever front truck best suits them. While a wider rear truck is more stable, when pumping, one wheel can come off the ground due to lack of leverage, which doesn't help the pump. A narrower truck will have more grip. When pumping, this is important once you get to top speed so the wheels won't slide out suddenly. The rear truck is also typically a lower degree, meaning less turn. A wider front truck has a larger turning radius and takes more effort to turn from one side to another, as opposed to a narrower truck which has a smaller turning radius and takes less effort to turn from one side to another.

    When considering the front to back difference in hanger widths, the purpose of a narrow back is to provide more grip and less overall turn, aiding in the pump. Partnered with a low-degree rear truck allows the back truck to track with the front very well. This is where the RT-S succeeds. A wider front truck allows the front to pull during the pump, and the narrow rear will push you during the pump. Both aid you, so it's hard to go against it.

    Q. I am looking to buy some DT Poppys for my Century 40 and don't know which width to get. What is the best width on that deck for pumping? I'm over 200 lbs and running some narrow Bennet/Tracker combo right now and it seems really narrow, do I get the Poppy 125-131-137-143mm hangers, or the 152-158-164-170mm?
    A. Recommendation: 152-170 Poppys. Just remember to keep your front base plate angle less than 65 degrees (overall, account for Century's 10 degree wedge). You can fine tune this increment with small angled risers from our website.

    A wider truck allows for a larger turn in the pump, creating more rebound from the flex to push the board back towards center. Good: more leverage on the truck, bigger pump. Bad: hard at slower speeds (>8 mph). Simple: Larger hangers better for maintaining top speed.

    A narrower truck allows a quicker pump, mostly attributed to the bushings returning the board towards center. Good: less body energy to pump. Bad: not as high of a top speed (<10mph). Simple: Narrow hangers better for acceleration.

    Rider weight can influence this a bit. Lighter riders generally pick quicker pumps, and heavier riders use bigger pumps. This can usually be explained by energy exertion; lighter weight is easy to move quickly, heavier weight is easier to keep momentum.

    Remember, bushings also change how the trucks feel. So if you're not fully satisfied, try out some different duros. Stick with one company, though. (Riptide bushings suggested for anything less than 25 mph. Very lively and responsive).

    Q. Just want to know if you have bushings available; at 120 lbs I am probably too light for stock poppy or delirium. Do you have options for riptide bushings?
    A. For the bushings, we can ask Don't Trip to put in their softest bushings for you. We recommend 65a for the front and 75a for the back due to your weight. It is worth experimenting to find out what your preferred bushing duro is from Riptide.

    Q. I do LDP and I'd like to keep my platform board as light as possible.
    A. Adding composites can lighten your board, as they often replace a wood ply, but it's really the brackets that contribute the most weight to your board. You might consider the G|Bomb Torsion Tail because that adds the least amount of weight of any of the brackets, since it doesn't require a truck. There is also the option of adding a foam core to your board. That takes 3/4 - 1 lb (.34 - .45kg) out of the board. The exact amount depends on your weight and the construction of the board. 


    Q. How do I go about changing the shipping address on my order?
    A. If your board hasn't shipped out yet, we can easily change the shipping address on your order. Just send us an email or give us a call. If the board has already gone out and it is an international shipment, it is unlikely we can do anything about it. For a domestic shipment, we may be able to process an address redirect with UPS. However, there is a fee associated with that and it adds time to your delivery. If it is urgent and you want to go that route, please contact us.

    A better option might be to have the board held at a UPS center until you can pick it up. You can make that arrangement yourself by clicking on your tracking number which will take you to the UPS tracking page for your package. From there, click on the Change Delivery button to see what options are available to you.

    Q. Can you ship my package overnight or with expedited shipping?
    A. We're sorry, but we are not currently set up to do expedited shipping. Our experience is that it's generally cost prohibitive for the size of packages we ship. There is the option of having it held at a UPS Shipping Center for you to pick up, so you don't have to wait for the delivery, which could save you about a day.

    Q. I'm not home during the day, and it's not secure to leave a package at my address. Can you specify on the shipping documents that my package should only be delivered after 6pm?
    A. For domestic shipments there are two shipping options that might work here: we can require a signature for delivery (additional shipping fee), or you can have the package held at a nearby UPS Shipping Center for you to pick up at your convenience. (You can also have it held at a UPS Store, but that usually adds to the delivery time.)

    Q. I'm interested in buying a Subsonic longboard deck. With shipping to Canada from the US I usually get extra custom fees. Do you know if there will be such fees with the shipping carrier you use?
    A. Thanks for inquiring about a Subsonic deck. We generally ship Internationally through USPS, because their international shipping rates are so much more competitive than other carriers. Occasionally we can ship UPS Ground to Canada. Custom fees vary by country and product, so in your case they will be levied by Canada. You can look online at a import duty calculator for estimating your custom fees.